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ANTIQUES
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ANTIQUES
and COLLECTIBLES ARTICLES INDEX
COLORADO ANTIQUE
DEALERS DIRECTORY
Top Ten
Golden Rules for Buying and Collecting Antiques
By Phil Chave
Have you ever noticed that avid collectors of
anything larger than coins, stamps or postcards, seem to have much bigger
houses than most of us? I can't decide whether they buy the houses to
provide haven for their collections or does a huge empty house cry out to be
filled with whatever takes the owners fancy?
Like many others before me, my collecting (some
would say obsession) started at the age of 3 or 4 with coins, stamps,
cigarette cards and key rings. Of course, also like most others before me
and probably since, quantity was always infinitely preferable to quality.
And so, whilst my collections grew rapidly and cheaply, their values always
remained fairly constant, worthless.
Nevertheless, it was fun and laid the
foundation for the discipline that would be needed in later life as my
collections began to mature with my income, no doubt in a similar fashion to
the way your collecting started, which is why you are even contemplating
reading this.
1. The first rule is not to get over possessive about an item you purchase
at an auction or an antique shop. That is to say, never become so attached
to your pair or Wedgwood Fairyland lustre vases that you will never be able
to part with them. Remember to become an antique, an item has grown old and
probably had several owners, each who considered themselves its temporary
custodian and guardian. Not that you shouldn't receive pleasure from owning
something so beautiful and maybe even profit from its appreciation upon
transfer. Quite the contrary, look at it, adore it, allow yourself to be
enthralled by its beauty, and then let it move on, and enrich someone else's
life.
2. The second rule is to find out as much as you can about what it is you
are trying to collect or buy. You may already know much about your chosen
field of expertise, but there is always room for updating what you know in
the light of recent finds, sales and auction prices. Do your research and
don't be afraid to invest in books, magazines and membership to collectors
clubs, where you'll find a wealth of information that only adds to the
enjoyment of what you collect.
3. Rule three covers those who only buy as a form of investment. Unless you
have a proven track record, a very keen eye and deep pockets, this is really
best left to the experts. Valuations can go down as well as up, just like
shares. In fact, antique prices seem to be inextricably linked to share
prices. When stock markets crash, antiques seem like a good deal, but watch
prices tumble when world trade recovers and people want to put their money
back into the markets. The secret really is to purchase the very best
example of an item that you can afford. That way there is the greatest
chance that its value will increase over time.
4. My fourth rule stems from the mistakes of youth and is to do with giving
your collection a focus. Gravitate toward a particular manufacturer (i.e.
Moorcroft), artist (Lowry), region (France), time frame (Victorian), or
theme (Rugs from the Ottoman Empire). You may do this naturally after a
while, or you may ignore me altogether and collect what you want.
I must admit that whilst my collecting has become more focused, just like
the branches of a tree, I still, even now, find I take the odd detour.
Despite this, the trunk still keeps me on the straight and narrow and is the
means by which a collection matures.
Eventually, any new piece must stand-alone against the backdrop of other
acquisitions and it is at that moment you will discover the piece doesn't
"fit". Not only that, but you'll find that it actually detracts from your
collection. This is when you have to hope you bought wisely, and pristinely,
because at the same moment that this truth dawns on you, your first thought
will be "Can I sell it?"
5. Rule five also stems from the mistakes of youth and that is to buy the
best example you can afford. If you started your collection by buying
slightly damaged, cheaper versions of the same type of thing to establish
yourself as a collector in this field, consider selling all of them to buy
just one exceptional example. It will pay in the end! Suddenly you'll
discover that one absolutely perfect example is worth more than three - five
times what damaged examples are worth. I give no specifics here because this
axiom remains true for almost all types of antiques, from whatever field or
time period you can think of.
6. My sixth rule is to do with the condition of an item and the likely cost
implications of any repair or restoration necessary to bring it up to an
acceptable standard. Try to buy objects that are in as good a condition as
possible and be very careful of the wording in the catalogue description if
the item is an auction lot. Lookout for words in the description such as,
'after' so-and-so in design, or 'in the style of...', or 'similar to...'.
These distractions confirm any suspicions that the item is a fake, possibly
a forgery and at the very least, not original. These are areas of the Trades
Description Act that are not open to interpretation and the way an item is
described must be real and true. Nevertheless, note that unless you build
into your own price estimate the likely cost of restoration, you could
easily end up spending more for the item than it is worth, even at resale.
This is why the research you do on an item will never be wasted time. The
old saying "Caveat Emptor" - let the Buyer Beware, is never more true than
in the antiques world!
7. As a side note to rule six, while Caveat Emptor has a long history in
common law, I quite like the new Consumer Rights version, Caveat Venditor.
Literally meaning Seller Beware, the saying purports that the Seller is much
more knowledgeable about an item (after-all he/she did buy it with the
likely prospect of making a profit and so it may be assumed knows more about
it than the prospective purchaser) and therefore must bear responsibility
for protecting an unwary purchaser. Whilst there may be a certain poetry
about the idea, don't rely on it when you realize you've bought a dud.
So rule seven can quite legitimately recommend that you buy items that are
well made, have a fairly easily proven provenance, and are representative of
the time in which they were made.
8. It's always tempting to 'go with the flow' and buy things that are in
vogue at the moment. The trouble is that that is the trouble. A vogue is
now, not yesterday and certainly not tomorrow. Rule eight is about not
following a fashion, paying the inflated price of that fashion and watching
the price fall as the next fashion takes over. I've lost track of the number
of times you see an item on a TV program, such as The Antiques Roadshow, or
see a glossy picture of a fine piece of pottery in the Millers Annual
Antiques Guides, only to come across it, or something similar, at an
antiques fair and with a price tag twice its actual value, just because it's
'in vogue'. Some even have the audacity to advertise the item, "As seen on
Antiques Roadshow", as if that justifies the exorbitant price. The fact is,
some unlucky person will be suckered in and regret it in fairly short order.
Self preservation and instinct will serve you better if you stick to your
own area of expertise.
9. Rule nine? Always, always, always ask and obtain a proper receipt. This
is not only useful to establish ownership, it may be necessary for probate,
the tax office, your insurance company or the police may want it should,
heaven forbid, the item ever get stolen. Your receipt will need to contain
the following information: (a) The date. (b) The complete name, address and
telephone number of the seller. (c) A full and complete description of the
item ('a pair of candlesticks' isn't good enough!) (d) Whenever it's
important, make sure any damaged or worn areas are also noted and also the
date estimate of its origins (i.e. circa 1895). (e) And finally the price
you paid. You should also note for yourself the method of payment, credit
card, cash, or cheque.
Mostly, an auction house or antique shop owner will give you most of this
information without asking. Your main problem will be at 'car boot sales' or
'antique fairs' where stall owners all to often turn up without a proper
receipt book or even a piece of paper to write any sales on. Take your own
paper and get them to write it out, or you write it out and get them to sign
it. At car boots sales, I even surreptitiously write down the registration
number of the car driven by that table owner. Believe me, you'll be glad you
took the trouble one day!!
10. My last rule is simple; Only ever buy something you really, really like!
Happy Collecting!
Copyright Phil Chave
If you have any interesting stories or tips
about collecting or selling antiques please e-mail us at
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